The Pen y Cefn Guest House at Amlwch must rate as one of the very best B&Bs that I've ever visited. Hosts Colin and Jenny seemed to have thought of everything. If anyone is heading to Anglesey, I can heartily recommend them. See their website. As well as a discounted rate for the room, I was presented with a packed lunch. My message in their visitors' book was "I'll be back!"
Most days I average about 7 miles an hour. That may not sound much, but that includes stops for lunch, snacks, photos etc. It means that I need to be 'on the road' for up to ten hours a day. That's why I try to leave reasonably early. If I'm camping, I'm usually away by 08.00; if at a B&B it's more like 09.00. Ideally I try to reach my destination by 18.00, but it has been as late as 20.30.
This evening I continued past my planned stopover point (Plas Newydd) as there were no camp sites nearby, and continued over the Britannia Bridge and turned left towards Bangor, where I found a quiet camp site near the old Menai Bridge.
The day had started with a visit to Cemaes Bay, where an attractive harbour was well stocked with boats. Then it was on to Holyhead, where I enjoyed meeting up again with Sue Morris, Stena Ports' Personnel Manager, whom I knew from my days with British Ports Industry Training. I hadn't seen her for at least ten years. I spent a couple of hours in Holyhead, which included a brief tour of the port with Port Manager Alan Williams and a photoshoot for the Stena newsletter.
In days gone by, before there were bridges across the Menai Strait, there were many ferries operating between Anglesey and the mainland. My aim this afternoon was to visit several of these locations. I failed with the first, Plas Penrhyn, as it was at the end of a private, gated road, but succeeded with the next two, at Foel and Moel-y-Don. The fourth, at Plas Newydd, was within a nursery which was closed for the day.
So that's Anglesey circumnavigated; now it's on to the Lleyn Peninsula tomorrow, which I'm really looking forward to. And the weather seems promising.
Thursday, 30 June 2011
Wednesday, 29 June 2011
Boring Blogs?
I'm aware that recent Blogs have been rather boring. The trouble is, by the time I get round to writing them, it's usually well after 9pm and I'm ready for bed! Witty writing is then way beyond my ability. So my new policy is to write some words in my notebook at lunch or tea-time. So here I am at Menai Bridge (the village, not the bridge itself), having an early afternoon coffee and flapjack.
I've been thinking about bad drivers this morning, having encountered more than a few. I need to look at the Highway Code and see what it says about drivers v. cyclists. But I maintain that, where possible, drivers should leave a vehicle width gap when overtaking a bike. Few do, but if the road ahead is clear, there's no reason why they can't.
Other categories of 'bad drivers' are those who overtake when coming towards you. It's scary, seeing a vehicle (often a motorcycle) coming at you on your side of the road. Another type is those who blip the throttle before they overtake you. Generally, if a driver does anything that may cause the cyclist to swerve, then it must be classed as dangerous. Sometimes, the suction effect from a large vehicle can be quite frightening, as you're drawn in towards its rear quarter.
But enough moaning, I'm on Anglesey now, heading this evening to Amlwch...
(Later)
Coming out of Beaumaris I encountered my second 25% hill. I don't think it was that steep; it didn't look like a 1 in 4, and I managed to climb most of it, only stopping when the road became rather busy. As you can see from the photo, I also had to duck and watch out for falling rocks.
There were two campsites indicated on the map, just outside Amlwch. But when I got there, both had closed down. So it was into the village to find a B&B. There was just one, with a 'No Vacancies' sign. In some desperation, I rang the bell with the intention of asking if they knew of anywhere else nearby to stay. However, the door was answered by the owner's daughter, who was staying there with her own family. That's why the sign had been posted. The owner said that although there was a spare room, it wasn't ready for a guest. However the daughter insisted, and even offered to prepare the room herself. So I wandered into the village and found somewhere to eat. When I returned, everything was ready - a beautifully clean room.
I've been thinking about bad drivers this morning, having encountered more than a few. I need to look at the Highway Code and see what it says about drivers v. cyclists. But I maintain that, where possible, drivers should leave a vehicle width gap when overtaking a bike. Few do, but if the road ahead is clear, there's no reason why they can't.
Other categories of 'bad drivers' are those who overtake when coming towards you. It's scary, seeing a vehicle (often a motorcycle) coming at you on your side of the road. Another type is those who blip the throttle before they overtake you. Generally, if a driver does anything that may cause the cyclist to swerve, then it must be classed as dangerous. Sometimes, the suction effect from a large vehicle can be quite frightening, as you're drawn in towards its rear quarter.
But enough moaning, I'm on Anglesey now, heading this evening to Amlwch...
(Later)
There were two campsites indicated on the map, just outside Amlwch. But when I got there, both had closed down. So it was into the village to find a B&B. There was just one, with a 'No Vacancies' sign. In some desperation, I rang the bell with the intention of asking if they knew of anywhere else nearby to stay. However, the door was answered by the owner's daughter, who was staying there with her own family. That's why the sign had been posted. The owner said that although there was a spare room, it wasn't ready for a guest. However the daughter insisted, and even offered to prepare the room herself. So I wandered into the village and found somewhere to eat. When I returned, everything was ready - a beautifully clean room.
Tuesday, 28 June 2011
Good day / Bad day
First the good aspects of the day.
* Great night's sleep and sandwiches presented to me as I was leaving;
* Covered about 70 miles to the far side of Rhyl (Towyn to be precise);
* Sunny for most of the day, though not as warm as yesterday (probably a good thing);
* John and Eileen Turner met me as I was about to cross the River Dee, with a flask of hot coffee. Thanks!
Now the not so good things about the day.
* Got lost several times, thanks to poor signage and diverted cycle routes. Added several miles to an already long day.
* Strong westerly wind;
* Had another puncture - delayed for 30 minutes whilst fixing it.
Which leads me to another good thing - having texted John, whom I'd seen only half an hour earlier, about the puncture, he drove out to find me and helped to get back on the road by using a compressor to put some decent pressure in the tyre.
It's amazing how I survived right round Scotland, over all sorts of terrain, without a puncture. Now I've had one in England and one in Wales. This one was caused by a thorn, not glass.
Tomorrow I'll be going on to Anglesey, my eighth island.
* Great night's sleep and sandwiches presented to me as I was leaving;
* Covered about 70 miles to the far side of Rhyl (Towyn to be precise);
* Sunny for most of the day, though not as warm as yesterday (probably a good thing);
* John and Eileen Turner met me as I was about to cross the River Dee, with a flask of hot coffee. Thanks!
Now the not so good things about the day.
* Got lost several times, thanks to poor signage and diverted cycle routes. Added several miles to an already long day.
* Strong westerly wind;
* Had another puncture - delayed for 30 minutes whilst fixing it.
Which leads me to another good thing - having texted John, whom I'd seen only half an hour earlier, about the puncture, he drove out to find me and helped to get back on the road by using a compressor to put some decent pressure in the tyre.
It's amazing how I survived right round Scotland, over all sorts of terrain, without a puncture. Now I've had one in England and one in Wales. This one was caused by a thorn, not glass.
Tomorrow I'll be going on to Anglesey, my eighth island.
Monday, 27 June 2011
Bacon for breakfast - and lunch
I was just finishing breakfast at The Plough in Southport when Nigel, the owner, presented me with a foil-wrapped package containing bacon toasties - "in case you get stuck for something to eat today". I've said this before, but people can be so kind. I managed to defer eating them until reaching the Albert Dock in Liverpool three hours later, when they were still quite warm.
The route today was mainly off-road, following either discrete cycle paths or old railway tracks; occasionally there were marked cycle lanes on main roads. Part of the ride followed the Trans-Pennine Route (NCR62), which crosses the country finishing in Hornsea on the Yorkshire coast. I had actually ridden along part of that route back in the early days when following the old railway line between Hull and Hornsea.
Liverpool was very busy, and construction of the new Museum of Liverpool (opening next month) meant that access along the waterfront was restricted. Still, it was very pleasant sitting in the warm sunshine, eating my toasties.
My route took me across the Mersey at Widnes, by which time it had clouded over. To get to the bridge the Trans-Pennine Route followed the river eastwards until suddenly it rose by a series of wooden ramps, as can be seen in the photograph (left) on the hill above the metal bridge. The trouble was that the ramps were not slopes, but a series of steps. Fortunately the steps were shallow, and the distance between each step just over a bike's length. Still, it took me at least 10 minutes to negotiate this section. I wish Sustrans, or whoever is responsible for these National Cycle Routes, could indicate their suitability (or otherwise) for heavy bikes like mine!
Ever since my 'Workington experience', I'm acutely aware of glass on the road. In places it's awful, with broken glass scattered everywhere; it just can't be avoided. I do feel strongly that local people (Sustrans rangers?) should be out there clearing the tracks. The worst places today were in underpasses, where the route went under main roads or railway lines. Clearly these are places where young people gather, for various reasons, and obviously they're not averse to deliberately breaking a bottle or two.
I ended the day at Eastham Ferry, just short of my planned destination of Bromborough, where John Turner was waiting for me. After a short diversion to look at a derelict pier at Job's Ferry (where he took this photo of me), he drove me back to his home near Chester. His wife Eileen had prepared an excellent roast lamb dinner with all the trimmings, followed by (how did she know?) rhubarb crumble and ice-cream!
Tomorrow, John will drop me back at Eastham, when I'll continue around the Wirral Peninsula, across the River Dee and into Wales.
The route today was mainly off-road, following either discrete cycle paths or old railway tracks; occasionally there were marked cycle lanes on main roads. Part of the ride followed the Trans-Pennine Route (NCR62), which crosses the country finishing in Hornsea on the Yorkshire coast. I had actually ridden along part of that route back in the early days when following the old railway line between Hull and Hornsea.
Liverpool was very busy, and construction of the new Museum of Liverpool (opening next month) meant that access along the waterfront was restricted. Still, it was very pleasant sitting in the warm sunshine, eating my toasties.
Ever since my 'Workington experience', I'm acutely aware of glass on the road. In places it's awful, with broken glass scattered everywhere; it just can't be avoided. I do feel strongly that local people (Sustrans rangers?) should be out there clearing the tracks. The worst places today were in underpasses, where the route went under main roads or railway lines. Clearly these are places where young people gather, for various reasons, and obviously they're not averse to deliberately breaking a bottle or two.
I ended the day at Eastham Ferry, just short of my planned destination of Bromborough, where John Turner was waiting for me. After a short diversion to look at a derelict pier at Job's Ferry (where he took this photo of me), he drove me back to his home near Chester. His wife Eileen had prepared an excellent roast lamb dinner with all the trimmings, followed by (how did she know?) rhubarb crumble and ice-cream!
Tomorrow, John will drop me back at Eastham, when I'll continue around the Wirral Peninsula, across the River Dee and into Wales.
Sunday, 26 June 2011
Chased for payment
Last night I stayed at a camp site at Arnside (Hollins Farm). When I arrived the office was closed, so I found a place to pitch the tent in a crowded field. At about 8pm the warden arrived, asking if I was OK. Yes, I replied, and how much do I owe you? It appeared that he thought I was someone else who had booked that pitch. When he realised that I was not that person, he demanded £26. I was busy cooking supper, but expressed total amazement at that fee; the highest so far had been £17 (which was waived); the norm is about £10. He said that as I was just one person in a small tent he'd 'see me all right', by which I assumed he meant he wasn't charging me. After all, someone else had paid in advance for that pitch. And off he went.
In the morning, I packed up early and as I left he and his wife were busy near the entrance sorting out some rubbish bags. I said 'Hi' and continued out of the gate. He had nodded back. Then, some three miles down the road, I was confronted by the same warden in his Landrover, saying I hadn't paid and accusing me of trying to avoid payment. He tried to tell me that he had to justify the space I'd taken up. I explained that I thought he'd let me off the fee. After some nasty exchanges, I played my final card, the charity one. He then relented, with some reluctance. By then I had decided that I would pay him only £10, as the noise from drunken caravanners had lasted until well after 01.00, and the facilities were not as good as the previous night, which had cost a mere £8. So I put the tenner quietly away. But fancy being chased down the road!
George at Knott End jetty
Today I met up with George Thompson, whom I'd met at Durness in the north-west of Scotland. We had kept in touch after his Lands End to John O'Groats ride. We met just east of the Knott End ferry, after he had cycled up from Blackpool. He had got there by train from his home town of Darwen. He's a fit, nine stone something 66-year old, with a fancy bike. So he acted as pacemaker for me for much of the ride. We crossed via the ferry from Knott End to Fleetwood, which meant that I missed out a 15-mile loop. This would have taken to Skippool Creek, a former port, but not a serious omission. That helped me to get back on schedule. George eventually left me at Preston, where he was able to catch a train home. Good company - thanks George!
I eventually arrived on the outskirts of Southport at 20.00, where I dived into the first place offering accommodation, the Plough Inn at Crossens. Many thanks to the owner, Nigel, who gave me a discount rate as well as donating a hearty meal to the 'cause'.
In the morning, I packed up early and as I left he and his wife were busy near the entrance sorting out some rubbish bags. I said 'Hi' and continued out of the gate. He had nodded back. Then, some three miles down the road, I was confronted by the same warden in his Landrover, saying I hadn't paid and accusing me of trying to avoid payment. He tried to tell me that he had to justify the space I'd taken up. I explained that I thought he'd let me off the fee. After some nasty exchanges, I played my final card, the charity one. He then relented, with some reluctance. By then I had decided that I would pay him only £10, as the noise from drunken caravanners had lasted until well after 01.00, and the facilities were not as good as the previous night, which had cost a mere £8. So I put the tenner quietly away. But fancy being chased down the road!
Today I met up with George Thompson, whom I'd met at Durness in the north-west of Scotland. We had kept in touch after his Lands End to John O'Groats ride. We met just east of the Knott End ferry, after he had cycled up from Blackpool. He had got there by train from his home town of Darwen. He's a fit, nine stone something 66-year old, with a fancy bike. So he acted as pacemaker for me for much of the ride. We crossed via the ferry from Knott End to Fleetwood, which meant that I missed out a 15-mile loop. This would have taken to Skippool Creek, a former port, but not a serious omission. That helped me to get back on schedule. George eventually left me at Preston, where he was able to catch a train home. Good company - thanks George!
I eventually arrived on the outskirts of Southport at 20.00, where I dived into the first place offering accommodation, the Plough Inn at Crossens. Many thanks to the owner, Nigel, who gave me a discount rate as well as donating a hearty meal to the 'cause'.
Early to rise
This is Saturday's Blog. Sending it from Morecambe seafront on Sunday morning.
It rained all last night, only stopping at 06.30. That was my cue to get up early, cook some porridge and leave the campsite before 8. Spent a while trying to find the old port at Millom before setting off around the coast to Barrow-in-Furness. I had decided I could hardly miss out Barrow, as a) I hadn't been there before, and b) it's an important port. So it took the rest of the morning to reach Barrow. I then followed the coast north-eastwards to the former canal port of Ulverston, and then a long ride with no harbours around the edges of Morecambe Bay, until I reached Arnside at 18.30. Again, with rain threatening, I found a campsite and pitched up for the night. That leaves me about 30 miles behind schedule as I was supposed to have got as far as Glasson Dock.
Some busy roads today. Drivers in England seem to be in more of a hurry than in Scotland. They're also less concerned about giving me a wide berth; one came very close indeed and must've missed my pannier by inches.
No sun today, so any photos will be pretty dire. But no rain to speak of, either. Also, no Internet connection for the second night in a row. I managed to send yesterday's Blog from Ulverston and will look out for somewhere tomorrow to send this.
It rained all last night, only stopping at 06.30. That was my cue to get up early, cook some porridge and leave the campsite before 8. Spent a while trying to find the old port at Millom before setting off around the coast to Barrow-in-Furness. I had decided I could hardly miss out Barrow, as a) I hadn't been there before, and b) it's an important port. So it took the rest of the morning to reach Barrow. I then followed the coast north-eastwards to the former canal port of Ulverston, and then a long ride with no harbours around the edges of Morecambe Bay, until I reached Arnside at 18.30. Again, with rain threatening, I found a campsite and pitched up for the night. That leaves me about 30 miles behind schedule as I was supposed to have got as far as Glasson Dock.
Some busy roads today. Drivers in England seem to be in more of a hurry than in Scotland. They're also less concerned about giving me a wide berth; one came very close indeed and must've missed my pannier by inches.
No sun today, so any photos will be pretty dire. But no rain to speak of, either. Also, no Internet connection for the second night in a row. I managed to send yesterday's Blog from Ulverston and will look out for somewhere tomorrow to send this.
Saturday, 25 June 2011
Heading south - sort of
This is Friday's Blog - no signal last evening at Haverigg.
New tyre fitted this morning - thanks to The Bike Bank of Workington. They also advised that the bearings on my front wheel are beginning to go, so that's another problem I'll have to deal with soon. Not sure if that means a new wheel, or just new bearings. Anyone know?
After a promising start to the day, it turned increasingly cloudy and rain seemed the most likely outcome. I stopped at a campsite at Haverigg, some 25 miles short of my target destination. But I knew there were no campsites in Barrow, and this was the nearest. Tomorrow I may miss out Barrow-in-Furness and try and get back on schedule. The predicted rain arrived, though gently at first, at 18.30, by which time I was safely in my tent.
Had a 'nuclear' lunch in a cafe at Seascale, next to the Sellafield Power Station. Seemed to spend a lot of time today zigzagging around Cumbrian coastal villages, rather like the mad taxi-driver from Cockermouth. However I didn't kill anyone. I was just trying to avoid the main road, which was narrow and extremely busy.
I heard today from my French friend Alexandre, the one I saw several times in the North of Scotland. He went over to Stornoway from Ullapool and spent some time on Lewis and Harris. He's now back in Fraance, of course. I've met many interesting people on this trip and it's good to be able to keep in contact with them.
I've had another offer of accommodation, from John Turner who lives near Chester. He'll come and meet me when I'm somewhere south of the Mersey on Monday evening.
New tyre fitted this morning - thanks to The Bike Bank of Workington. They also advised that the bearings on my front wheel are beginning to go, so that's another problem I'll have to deal with soon. Not sure if that means a new wheel, or just new bearings. Anyone know?
After a promising start to the day, it turned increasingly cloudy and rain seemed the most likely outcome. I stopped at a campsite at Haverigg, some 25 miles short of my target destination. But I knew there were no campsites in Barrow, and this was the nearest. Tomorrow I may miss out Barrow-in-Furness and try and get back on schedule. The predicted rain arrived, though gently at first, at 18.30, by which time I was safely in my tent.
Had a 'nuclear' lunch in a cafe at Seascale, next to the Sellafield Power Station. Seemed to spend a lot of time today zigzagging around Cumbrian coastal villages, rather like the mad taxi-driver from Cockermouth. However I didn't kill anyone. I was just trying to avoid the main road, which was narrow and extremely busy.
I heard today from my French friend Alexandre, the one I saw several times in the North of Scotland. He went over to Stornoway from Ullapool and spent some time on Lewis and Harris. He's now back in Fraance, of course. I've met many interesting people on this trip and it's good to be able to keep in contact with them.
I've had another offer of accommodation, from John Turner who lives near Chester. He'll come and meet me when I'm somewhere south of the Mersey on Monday evening.
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